Thailand Travel Guide: The Old Market at Ang Sila in Chonburi

There are many places of interest in Chonburi province, and not all of them are centered around the resort town of Pattaya. Although some of these places are not that popular with local and foreign tourists alike, they are still worth visiting just because they bring a more authentic experience to your travels.

One such place is the quiet village of Ang Sila situated in Chonburi province, about 50 km north of Pattaya and 60 km southeast of Bangkok. Like most villages at the Gulf of Thailand, Ang Sila is a fisherman’s village that has long been overshadowed as a tourist attraction due mainly to its vicinity to Bang Saen beach and, to be fair, its very few attractions.

Trying to avoid the traffic on Chonburi’s Sukhumvit Road and on the avenue leading down to Bang Seaen beach, drivers take the “shortcut” via Ang Sila, a road which, although is longer due to its many winding curbs, it is much less used. As such, people just pass through Ang Sila on their way to Khao Sam Muk Hill, also known as “Monkey Hill,” because of its large numbers of monkeys roaming the way up and down the hill, where tourists stop briefly before heading down for the beach chaise longues and umbrellas of Bang Saen. All they want is to enjoy the famous local seafood and the not-so-clean beach.

Without even blinking twice, drivers pass the Ang Sila Old Market and, once back on a stretch of straight road, they speed by the huge structure of a Chinese temple which pops into their view on the left hand side of the road. The monkeys, the shrimps and the sand are waiting for them just a few more kilometers down the road, so there’s no time to stop.

Little do Bangkokians going down to Bang Saen know that the seafood they are about to enjoy comes right from the market at Ang Sila, which has been serving the local community since 1876. Ang Sila has always been a small fishing village whose inhabitants, at the peak of their fame, had once been visited by King Rama V. But, their market is the best place in Chonburi to buy fresh seafood which is literally unloaded from the fishermen’s boats right there and then.

Apart from the fish, shrimps, crabs and all the imaginable sea creatures you can buy here, both fresh and dried, another worthy attraction is the approximate 180 houses surrounding the market area. The fishermen’s homes are more than one century old and they give the place an atmosphere one might have witnessed only in the old days when Thailand was known as Siam.

Next to the jetties where the fishermen’s families have set up stalls, there’s also an area covered with a multitude of small shops selling locally made products, from dried fish to seashell curtains to stonework. For Ang Sila means “Basin of Stone” and the local stonemasons have created durable stone mortars used in preparing som tam and chili paste. These can be purchased in the market at very affordable prices.

The road leading to the market at Ang Sila is in good conditions and the local administration has even paved a large parking area right next to the market. From here you can take in the salty smell of the sea and snap a few pictures at the fishing boats returning with their catch. But, if you really want to make full use of your camera features, then you definitely have to stop at the huge Chinese temple located only a few kilometers down the road towards Bang Saen Beach.

Going down to Bang Saen, the road is littered with restaurants built on stilts right by the side of the road and over the beach of Ang Sila. Although the water is not as clear as you’d expect from a beach in Thailand, the value for money is great and you can always count on being served fresh seafood. The view is excellent and, depending on the tide, your meal can be accompanied by the sound of waves banging on the shore beneath you.

To reach the market coming down from Bangkok, turn right at Ang Sila Junction at the kilometre marker 102 on Sukhumvit Road in Chonburi. The market is open between 10am and 6pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Also, taking advantage of the fact that Thais like to travel during official holidays, the market is also open on these special days. For more information, you can visit the city’s official website (Thai only) or call 0 3839 8497.

Initially published in “Bangkok Trader” (Vol.7, No.5, April 2013)

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