Bangkok Travel Guide: Exploring the Phallic Shrine

The Phallic Shrine, or Chao Mae Tuptim, is located at the back of Nai Lert Park Hotel on Sukhumvit Road, Soi Som Khit, near Chitlom BTS Skytrain station in the center of the Thai capital, Bangkok.

The nicely-paved path leading to the Shrine of Godess Tuptim is flanked by low green bushes, giving the place a peaceful atmosphere where the believers can pray and make their offerings.

Chao Mae Tuptim’s shrine is decorated with flower garlands and figurines dressed in traditional Thai costumes. The wooden carving of the goddess is places inside the house-like shrine.

Hundreds of phalluses made of metal, wood, bone etc. “decorate” the grounds of the shrine. The level of detail of some of the phalluses is quite striking.

A lingam is the phallic form of Shiva, a Hindu god which, according to Hinduism has, among others, the role of the creator. Thus, the lingams at the Chao Mae Tuptim shrine suggest a fertility cult.

The phalluses are placed all over the small park and in very different position. Here, we see vertical lingams suggesting the form of mushrooms.

A huge collection of colourful figurines of people and animals were given as offerings to the goddess. By the tree, you can also see a traditional Thai dress of normal size!

Most of the phalluses are painted red, a colour which suggest the woman’s sexual energy and fertility. The lingams are brought to the shrine by women who desire to have children, but can’t conceive.

Before being offered to the shrine, some phalluses are taken to temples where knowing monks incise inscription in Pali or Sanskrit on them, thus transforming the lingams in more powerful offerings.

Everything surrounding the shrine is sacred, including the big tree which offers a welcoming shade to the visitors. The colourful pieces of silk wrapped around the trunk of the tree hint at the Thai animistic belief that a spirit resides in that tree.

Due to its obscure location, the Chao Mae Tuptim Shirne is not a well-known tourist destination and thus makes a great Thai experience. Entry is free of charge.

Author V.M. Simandan

is a Beijing-based Romanian positive psychology counsellor and former competitive archer

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V.M. Simandan