Bangkok Travel Guide: Exploring Neilson Hays Library

neilson-hays-library-1With the occasion of the bi-annul used books sales and Cornelis Hoek’s “Cornelages” exhibition organized by Neilson Hays Library, I also had the chance of visiting the library itself. Located on Surawong Rd. in Silom, Bangkok’s banking district, the library is housed by a beautiful medium-size mansion. The building was designed by Mario Tamagno, an Italian architect well-know for erecting some of the most important landmarks in the capital of Thailand.

The history of the library goes back to 1866 when the library started collecting its first books in English. At first it was called the Bangkok Ladies Library Association and the books were stored in a private residence. In 1881, things took up speed with the arrival of Jennie Neilson of Danish origins to Thailand. She moved to Bangkok and then married Dr. Heyward Hays in 1887. To reduce the costs involved in renting out a place for the library, the Association bought a plot of land on Surawong Road but Jennie Neilson never got to see the building that now hosts the library. She died in 1920 of cholera. Her husband commissioned the Italian architect to design the building and, on June 26, 1922, the gates of the newly-named Neilson Hays Library were opened. In just five days, the library will celebrate its 88th anniversary!

Today the entrance to the library is no longer through the rotunda, but through a side door that can be reached via the courtyard. The rotunda, now known as the Rotonda Gallery, is a place where art exhibitions are held on a regular basis. When I visited the library, Cornelis Hoek was exhibiting “Cornelages: A Paper-Cut Photo Collage.”

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The library boasts a collection of 20,000 books, apparently the largest collection of English language titles in Bangkok, ranging from non-fiction and fiction to children’s books. Neilson Hays Library also stacks a variety of local and international English-language newspapers and magazines.

Unfortunately, I have to admit that I wasn’t too impressed by the inside of the library. The books are shelved in old wooden cupboards which you have to open if you want to browse the titles. Also, the lightning is not that good, especially to reading requirements. Nevertheless, the few ancient chairs and tables give the place an aura of antiquity and the visitor is indeed marveled by the Italian-style ornate windows and colonnades.

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When it comes to the books they have, I saw many old, hardcover books and only a few new titles. Overall the reference section on Thailand and Southeast Asia lacked many important books that I might have considered borrowing. Now, this might be because the approximate 600 members might have already taken the good stuff home. Instead, the children’s section is well stocked, with the library organizing special activities for the young on a regular basis. There’s also storytelling every Saturday. It’s well worth mentioning the fact that all the staff of the library is made up of volunteers, so the library membership fees go straight into buying new books and maintaining the facility. For membership details, opening hours and an online catalogue, check out their official website.

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The library is flanked by a Garden Café Gallery where you can either relax having a snack and a soft drink or enjoy the exhibits on the wall. Actually, you could do both at the same time! You can also sit in the fresh air of the courtyard, right outside the window walls of the gallery, and take in the surroundings.

As one of the leading cultural places, catered almost exclusively for expatriates, I recommend Neilson Hays Library for both its architecture and value as an English language source of knowledge. If you’re a Bangkok resident, or even if you’re just passing though the capital, make time and pay them a visit. You won’t regret it.

Author V.M. Simandan

is a Beijing-based Romanian-born counsellor, coach, psychology teacher, and former competitive archer

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Join the discussion 2 Comments

  • Beverly DeSonier says:

    Dear Mr. Simandan,
    You mentioned in your above article that the Thailand and South East Asia section was lacking in some books. Please write and let me know which books you were interested in reading. Also I believe we have purchased 15 books in the past month about Thailand. It will take some time for them all to reach the shelves.
    The cabinets you mentioned are the original cabinets which were installed when the library was built. We are quite proud of them as they are the original ones from 1922.
    I believe Jenny and Dr. Hays were married in Bangkok after they met here.
    We are having another Book Sale in November. Perhaps I shall meet you at that sale. It will be held on November 20 and 21.
    Regards,
    Beverly DeSonier

  • admin says:

    Dear Beverly,

    I made the correction regarding the marriage of Jenny and Dr. Hays. Thank you for pointing the mistake to me.

    At that time I was desperately trying to find “Samurai of Ayutthaya” by Yamada Nagamasa (White Lotus, 2009), but fortunately I bought the book at the Japanese Village in Ayutthaya.

    I will definitely visit the November book sale.

    Regards,
    Mihnea

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V.M. Simandan